Ever wondered what the names and numbers mean?
Shirt fabric is often referred to by numbers. This number describes the thickness of yarn. The lower numbers are thicker, courser yarns, these start at 24’s. The larger numbers upwards of 200’s are thinner, finer yarns.
As a rule the higher yarn numbers, the softer and more expensive.
The higher the number the better, right?
It isn’t always the higher the number the better the yarn. It ultimately depends on personal preference. The higher yarn numbers are incredibly soft and smooth, but they are also harder to maintain, wrinkle easily, and are usually lightweight.
Twills (2ply): Twill fabrics (including herringbone and houndstooth,) are created by a weave construction that creates a diagonal ribbing or “wale”. The diagonal weave makes twill fabrics softer, they wrinkle less, and are easier to iron. Twill fabrics are a good choice if you like a softer, heavier fabric. Like Pinpoint, twill fabrics are suitable for formal and informal occasions.
Poplins (2 ply and 3 ply): The classic dress shirt fabric. This fabric is created using a simple over/under weave pattern and is generally woven tightly with finer yarns so that the result is smooth and silky. The finer the yarn the silkier the fabric. This is ideal when used for colour woven design, such as stripes and checks They are lightweight, versatile and often favoured by the city gent.
Oxford: These are inherently more casual as the yarn used is not as fine. Oxford fabrics are created using a basket weave, where multiple yarns pass over one-another in the vertical and horizontal directions.
Dobby and Jacquards: Dobby and Jacquard are two different but related types of fabric – both complex weaving techniques that create patterns in the weave itself often by way of colour or to produce texture through pattern.
Printed lawn: These shirts are made from very fine cotton that is very lightweight and extremely silky to the touch. An ideal fabric for a luxurious casual shirt.
Heavy pique: (occasion wear) Used for dress shirts as an alternative to a pleated front the heavy pique can be used for the collar and bib front.
Brushed cottons: ideal for winter shirts as the surface is raised and the fabric has a warm hand feel.
Satins: have a very high thread count in the vertical direction of the fabric creating a sheen to the fabric. This make it good for evening or fashion wear.
And then what type of collar?
Your choice! It’s all down to personal preference.
Ask for a made to measure shirt and apart from the fabric there are the collars and cuffs to consider. Double or single cuff is simple enough, but the collar requires thought!
